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Historic Home Renovation

Historic home renovation is bringing an older Massachusetts house up to modern use while keeping what makes it old: the plaster, the trim, the framing, the proportions. The most important part is knowing what you are standing in before anything comes out.

What older Massachusetts houses are made of

A house built in 1880 or 1920 was put together differently from anything built since. The walls are often plaster on wood lath, sometimes horsehair plaster, solid enough to hold a picture nail and heavy enough to crack when somebody cuts it carelessly. The framing may be balloon framing, with studs running continuously from the sill to the roof and no fire blocking at the floors. The foundation is frequently fieldstone, laid without much mortar and patched over generations.

These are good houses. Many were framed with old-growth lumber, denser than most framing lumber sold today, and plenty have stood for well over a century. They also hide surprises. Knob-and-tube wiring shows up during demo in houses that were supposedly rewired. Previous owners notched joists for pipes, cut out posts to open a room or buried a rotted sill behind new siding. We open things up carefully and look before we commit to a plan.

The walkthrough on an older house takes longer than on a newer one. We go into the basement and the attic, look at the foundation, the sills and the roof framing, and ask what you know about the house's history. The written scope that follows separates what we know from what we will only know when the walls are open, and it says how surprises will be handled.

Lead-safe work on anything before 1978

Any house built before 1978 may have lead paint, and most older Massachusetts houses do somewhere: window sashes, trim, porch railings, the layers under the newer paint. Renovation in those houses follows lead-safe work practices under the EPA's RRP rule. In practice that means containing the work area with plastic, using methods that keep dust down, cleaning with HEPA vacuums and wet wiping, and verifying the cleanup before the area reopens.

This matters most for families with young children or someone pregnant in the house, and it shapes the schedule. Sanding old trim on a whim is off the table. Window work, where old sashes rub and generate dust, gets particular attention. We will explain exactly how the containment works on your job and what rooms you can use while it is in place.

Lead-safe practice is also why we are careful about what gets removed. Stripping every original surface is rarely the right answer. Often the better path is to stabilize, repair and repaint, keeping the old material and the profile that came with it.

Matching trim, plaster and details

Nothing marks a careless renovation faster than new trim that does not match the old. Original casings, baseboards, crown and window stools in older houses were often run on site or milled to profiles that are no longer stocked. When a piece has to be replaced or extended, we match it: sometimes from salvaged stock, sometimes by having the profile milled, sometimes by building it up from standard pieces. Finish carpentry is where you can tell whether a builder cared.

Plaster gets the same thinking. Where plaster is sound, we keep it. Where it has failed, a skim coat or veneer plaster over new board keeps the hard, flat character of the original wall better than standard drywall tape and mud. Old doors, hardware and built-ins are taken out carefully, labeled and stored if they are coming back.

Floors are often the best surprise in an older house. Original hardwood under carpet or linoleum can usually be repaired, patched with matching boards and refinished. We note where boards have to be pulled for a pipe or wire so they go back in the same spot.

Running new systems through old framing

Most owners of older houses want the house to keep its character and work like a new one: safe wiring, good water pressure, real heat, and walls that do not leak air all winter. That is achievable, but it takes planning. Licensed electricians and plumbers run new work through old framing with as little demolition as possible, and every hole has a plan to be closed and finished.

Balloon framing needs particular care. Those open stud bays run from basement to attic and act like chimneys in a fire, so fire blocking goes in at the floor levels wherever walls are open. When wiring is fished through closed bays, the electrician has to know what is there.

Insulation is the hardest call in an old house. Adding insulation to a wall that was built to breathe can trap moisture against the sheathing if it is done wrong. We look at each wall, the siding, the vapor path and the energy code your town has adopted before choosing a method. Air sealing at the attic floor and basement rim is often the place to start, because it does the most good with the least risk.

Heating is often the last system people think about. Old steam and hot water radiators are worth keeping in many houses, since they heat evenly and suit the rooms they were sized for. Where a system is being replaced, the new equipment and piping are planned around the trim and floors we are trying to save.

Exterior changes and the historic district commission

Inside a local historic district, changes to the exterior that can be seen from a public way typically need review by the town's historic district commission before the building department will issue a permit. That can include windows, doors, siding, roofing material, porches and additions. Not every older house is in a district, and the rules vary from town to town, so the first step is finding out what applies to yours.

Where review is required, we help you prepare what the commission asks for, such as drawings, material samples and photos of the existing conditions, and we build that step into the schedule rather than discovering it in the middle of the job. Commissions generally favor repair over replacement and matching materials over substitutes, which usually lines up with doing the work well anyway.

You deal with Steve from the first walkthrough through the final inspection, and you get clear updates as the house reveals itself. Changes are written down and agreed before the work happens. On an older house that means slowing down when a wall turns up something unexpected, and telling you about it the same day.

See the rest of our remodeling work, or browse the gallery for rooms we have finished.

How the job runs

Remodeling work follows the same order every time, so you always know which part of the job you are in.

  1. First

    A walkthrough comes first, with Steve, at the house. You show him the problem and the wish list; he shows you what the structure and the systems will allow.

  2. Then

    The proposal is written down in plain words. If a decision is still open, it says so, and it says when we need it from you.

  3. During

    Permits are pulled, the work is scheduled, and you hear from us as it moves. If something unexpected turns up, you hear about it before anything changes.

  4. Last

    A final walkthrough with Steve closes the job. You go room by room and nothing is called finished until you agree it is.

Questions people ask about historic home renovation

Does my older house have lead paint?

If it was built before 1978, assume it may, especially on windows, trim and exterior surfaces. Renovation follows EPA RRP lead-safe work practices regardless, with containment, dust control and verified cleanup.

Can you keep my original plaster walls?

Where the plaster is sound, yes, and we prefer to. Cracks can be repaired and loose sections reattached. Where it has failed, veneer plaster or a skim coat keeps the character of the wall better than standard drywall.

Do I need historic commission approval for my renovation?

Commission review generally applies when the house sits inside a local historic district and the exterior change can be seen from a public way, and the rules vary by town. Interior work is generally outside the commission's review. We help you find out what applies before the plan is final.

What is balloon framing and why does it matter?

Balloon framing uses studs that run continuously from the foundation to the roof, common in older houses. The open bays let fire and air travel between floors, so fire blocking goes in wherever walls are opened, and new wiring has to be routed with that framing in mind.

Should I insulate the walls of my old house?

Sometimes, carefully. Old walls were built to dry out, and the wrong insulation can trap moisture against the sheathing. We look at each wall and usually start with air sealing the attic floor and basement rim, which does the most good with the least risk.

More remodeling work

All 17 remodeling services

Home Renovation

Home renovation is targeted work on a house you are living in: a few rooms refreshed, the repairs you have put off finally done and the last owner's shortcuts fixed properly.

Interior Remodeling

Interior remodeling changes how the inside of a house flows without touching the exterior or the footprint: walls moved or removed, openings widened, stairs, ceilings, doors and trim reworked.

Living Room Remodeling

Living room remodeling focuses on the one room your family uses every evening: the fireplace wall and built-ins, the big window, the ceiling and lighting, the floor and the trim.

Bedroom Remodeling

Bedroom remodeling covers the guest room, the kids' rooms and the spare rooms: closets, windows, sound between rooms, lighting and finishes.

Master Suite Remodeling

Master suite remodeling plans the primary bedroom, its bathroom and its closet as one private wing of the house.

Dining Room Remodeling

Dining room remodeling makes the dining room a room your household uses all year instead of a pass-through between the kitchen and the front hall.

Tell Steve what you have in mind

Monday to Friday 7 to 5, Saturday 8 to noon. Based in Raynham and working within about a hundred miles of it. See finished rooms in the gallery.